It is just getting light at 6:15 or so and I was on the trail by 7:00.  The trail was refreshingly flat today, and I made good time across the Cochetopa Hills. There are still very rocky sections, but there are also huge, open dry grass meadows with dirt roads that are visible for miles as they extend into the distance.

Later in the day I crossed Hwy 114 and shortly after met DJ, a young Sobo who was fun to talk with. We hiked within sight of each other and it was fun for me to see if I could keep up (he really moves). At one point I cut some road switchbacks near Archuleta Creek and he saved me from continuing down the road after the trail had diverged from one of the cut sections. I sure was grateful – I don’t have the energy to spare on wrong turns!  Shortly after that we had a snack while he waited for his friend Cowboy to catch up. Eventually his friend was visible in the distance and I decided to get going. These young guys would be passing me soon anyway.

I filled water at Ant Creek. During this time DJ passed me by, and after a short while along came Cowboy. We were talking and all of a sudden I realized this was the same guy I met back in Lander at the Ice Scream Shack! DJ and Cowboy had met some girls on the trail and got way behind on their schedules, but the girls are gone now and they are doing 24’s and up.  They think they can still do the San Juans before the snow.  The long range forecasts look good so I wish them well.

I said goodbye and resumed my water refill. Ant Creek has a lot of floaties, and there is a lot of cow poop around.  There were some nice campsites near the creek, but I decided to keep going to find a warmer spot. These valley bottoms get very cold and wet in the early morning.  I kept going until darkness closed in and finally had to settle for a spot in some trees just before Quemado Creek where the cows have been making dirt wallows.  The area is a mess with cow poop, broken branches, dust bowls, aspen trees and weeds.  And it is also on a slope.  I spent a lot of time dragging branches around to try to make a level spot for my tent. I probably should have just camped out in the open meadow, but I was obsessed with staying out of the wind and under the aspen trees.

I am still dealing with a mildly sore tooth issue but only when I chew on those lower left teeth.  The jaw issue is gone and so is the throbbing pain.  What is more concerning is my continued numbness and tingling in my lower lip.  My dentist said if it keeps up we must consider heart issues which freaks me out.  On the positive side I did 25 miles today and the lethargy seems to be at least diminished.  I’m still hoping the antibiotics finally fixed it but I’m running out of ideas.  Another possibility is my pack shoulder strap is pinching a nerve.  I don’t have feeling in my upper left leg.  Maybe this is another manifestation?  Don’t know but it is yet something else to worry about.  Sigh.  I’m falling apart at the seams.

Tomorrow is mostly a very long uphill to 12,500 feet where the trail stays for several miles before hitting the Creede cutoff.  I don’t like camping that high so we shall see.  Maybe I’ll camp early and then have a longer final day into Creede?  I really like getting into town early so I just don’t know.

The wind was more reasonable today but it never seems to stop. I also find myself getting emotional thinking about everyone waiting for me at the finish. I think this is another side effect of just being worn out and lonely but it would sure be great to finish with some friends.  I’ll probably get there as a tumbleweed blows across the closed doors of a shuttered Ghost Ranch and say “Yay?” to myself, then figure out how to get home.  Either way it is going to be emotionally tough for me.  This has been a really difficult endeavor.  But I’m almost done!  Maybe 2 weeks.  😁🥴😬