We left Silver City via the Walnut Creek Alternate. This is a 7 mile road walk along Little Walnut Creek road. It is mostly paved with light traffic until you get to Little Walnut/Gomez Peak picnic area where it turns to dirt. There is a very nice faucet with clean water here.
While walking along the road a couple of cars slowed down and asked if we wanted a ride but we politely declined. I’m determined to do continuous footsteps from Mexico to Canada. We also had several thumbs-up’s and honks with enthusiastic waves of support which always brings a smile to my face. As we got near the picnic area a girl leaned way out the window and yelled “You are never gonna make it!” with a big grin. I yelled “Argh” and she managed to say “Yes you will!” Just before leaving earshot. 🙂
At the picnic area a foot race to the top of Gomez Peak was just starting so we watched them all go by. Everyone was so serious except the very last guy who was wearing a crazy outfit and a huge grin. He was the only one who waved to us. Funny how the last person seems to be the one having the most fun – something to keep in mind.
We reached the end of the Walnut Creek Alternate, crossed the official CDT, and immediately began the Gila Alternate. Most CDT hikers take this alternate because it follows the beautiful Gila River through the Gila Wilderness. The official trail climbs high into the Black Mountains, but I figure there will be plenty of high trail in the months to come, and not much traveling along a river.
The alternate started with more road walking but this time it was on a little-used dirt road. Eventually we turned onto an even more remote ATV track where we ran into our old friend Harry (Angel Feet) coming towards us. He had been several days ahead of us, but fell and hurt his hips. He said they were clunking now and he had to return to Silver City to see a doctor. This made me sad – he was so determined and enthusiastic when we last saw him. This trail seems to slowly eat people up.
It was a long day on an ever worsening ATV track that climbed higher and higher along rocky ledges. It was getting dark and I needed water. We decided to push to the next water source which turned out to be the famous “RegisTree” and the haunt of Doug the Hermit. I filled water from a small pool in some rocks and was in the process of setting up my bed when Doug appeared on the rocks above me. Doug seemed a little shy at first and quietly introduced himself. He invited me to come see his garden and home. We collected Pat who was already in his sleeping bag.
It was getting dark so we viewed his garden with headlights and made our way to his cabin. It is a small rectangular shack about 15 x 20 feet and stuffed with food, clothes, books, a lithium power cell, tomato plants, a small neatly-made bed, 5 gallon pails of lentils and who knows what, a stove, a heater, a beer making kit, and 3 chairs that we all sat in. We talked about his life and living here, and he also went into a long explanation of a bunch of religious stuff that I didn’t follow. Eventually I had to excuse myself because I was ready for some sleep. He wants us to return tomorrow morning and have coffee with him.